In this lesson we are going to establish the principles for a double huck warp. Then we'll set about getting one made and onto the loom.

For the purposes of sampling, I recommend a warp that is 8 - 10 inches (20 - 25 cm) wide and 4 yards (3.5 m) long. However, if you want to make something wider or longer, with a view to completing a project later, that is absolutely fine.

Jump quickly to...

1.1 Threading for double huck
1.2 Choosing yarn and sett
1.3 Choosing colours
1.4 Making your warp and dressing the loom

Update log for lesson one

Date	Pages affected	Change
13 Nov 2022	EDH01 Threading worksheet (blank PDF)	Profile section now interactive
1 Nov 2022	EDH01-1 Threading for double huck transcript Page 9	Colour bar sequence corrected
10 Apr 2023	EDH01-4 Transcripts	Transcripts added for warping demo videos
6 Oct 2025	EDH01-4 Winding two colours together	New reference worksheet added

1.1 Threading for double huck

We're considering the threading early on because it will inform the planning of our warp. 

1.2 Choosing yarn and sett

For double huck the pattern of sleying is as important as the overall density of the warp. 

Need some help planning your layout in the reed? This reference worksheet contains sett tables for a selection of imperial and metric reed sizes.

1.3 Choosing colours

​Now that you have chosen your fibre, let's narrow it down.

1.4 Making your warp and dressing the loom

Finally, it is time to get on with some practical yarn-wrangling. Feel free to make the warp and dress the loom any way that suits you.

In the videos below I demonstrate my preferred method of making a two-colour warp, so that the two colours are separated in the threading cross, but there is no need to do this if you prefer to make your warp another way. For those who would rather wind the two yarns through the cross together, I haven't made a video, but I do have a couple of simple but important tips: you'll find them in this reference worksheet.

Two versions of the processIn the first video I demonstrate how I make a warp with two crosses, so there is a raddle cross as well as a threading cross. The warp here is made on a warping mill, but exactly the same principles can be applied on a board.

In the second video I demonstrate how I make a warp with a single cross, i.e. just the threading cross. Again, the method is applicable to whatever warp-making tools you like to use.

Handling the false crossUsing either of these methods will create a false cross in your warp. This will flatten out and disappear when your warp is beamed, but you do need to make sure that your warp is secure before you let it go. How you handle it will depend on the way you set up your warp on the loom, so I have made a reference worksheet to help you decide.

Now share your work!

We all love a warped-up loom, so don't forget to take a picture and share it with us in the Community Hub.